Marhaban Sa'eef (Welcome Summer)

Officially done with my studies in Morocco, for now...

Enjoying my last few days in Rabat!

Independent Study Project (ISP) and Fieldwork in Morocco

On every SIT: World Learning study abroad program, each student is required to complete and Independent Study Project (ISP) and complete original fieldwork in the host country. Since April 5, I have been shaping my research question, visiting government agencies and NGOs, and doing interviews and fieldbased research in rural Morocco. Last week, I went back to Ouled Ghanem, the village I visited in early March, to conduct 20 interviews for my ISP. Take a look at my topic below...

Title

Motivations to Migrate: Migration from Morocco and the “Failure” of Rural Development during the Eurozone Financial Crisis

Abstract

This study examines the situation for Moroccan migrant workers amidst tightening European Union borders and a slimming European frontier for employment. The Eurozone financial crisis, as well as right-wing anti-immigrant politics, has made it increasingly difficult for Moroccans to migrate to Europe to find stable employment. Young Moroccan migrants without visas and working papers are forced to enter Europe illegally, and often dangerously, in search of opportunities. Furthermore, while migrants who hold proper documentation are able to migrate freely, they are faced with a weak job market and dwindling wages. EU’s closing borders are impeding a fifty-year pattern of Moroccan migration to southern Europe to find work, prosper and provide for their families back home. Moroccan NGOs, as well as Spain and Italy, have recently invested in rural development initiatives aimed at increasing employment opportunities in Morocco and deterring workers from migrating. Yet Moroccans keep risking their lives and continue to migrate illegally every day as these initiatives are proving to be ineffective. This study aims to explore the social and economic motivations of Moroccan migrant workers and determine whether or not domestic development initiatives will ever satisfy these motivations. The results show that rural development projects are not effective in stopping migration from the village to Europe, although they do aid in providing means and opportunities for Moroccans who chose not to migrate. This outcome is relevant to the Moroccan government, receiving EU countries, private investors and developers, as well as the rural Moroccan population; it can be used for the Western Mediterranean region to better adapt and grow to meet the challenge of closing borders and economic recession. 

40 pages due May 5...wish me luck!

Hanan (The Compassionate One)

Some of my best memories of my time in Morocco were shared with my girlfriend, Hannah. Hannah had studied abroad in Rabat 3 years ago and was called “Hanan” by Moroccans, or "the compassionate one". She was part of the reason (a large part) that I chose to study abroad in Morocco because of the rich and beautiful stories and memories she experienced here. 

Hannah arrived in Rabat on Friday, April 5 and we stayed the weekend at my host family’s house. My brothers absolutely loved her and she loved them, as did Bouchra, as was proven by their 4 hour hammam experience together. We bought jellabas with my host father and spent time with my brothers the whole weekend.

After Rabat, we travelled north to the Rif Mountains to Chefchaouen, Tangier and Assilah, a gorgeous gem of a medina right on the Atlantic coast. 

The best part about having Hannah here was that we were able to share our love for Morocco. She had loved it for three years, and I was enthralled from the moment I got here. Together in Morocco, we decided that there is no other place in the world that we ever need to visit. 

Love you, Han...next year insha'allah.

Rabat

Chefchaouen

Tangier

Assilah

aaaand...He's Back!

Although it’s been 27 days since my last blog post, rest assured that I’ve been as busy as ever traveling all over Morocco. I officially have 2 weeks left, just 14 short days to enjoy this beautiful new land that I’ve fallen in love with. Check out my new posts to get up to speed...

Staring over the Straight of Gibraltar to Spain, just 14km away...

The Djaha Family Caravan

10 days. 8 cities. 6 loud, crazy, and most of all, hungry Djahas.

I picked up my family at Mohammed V airport in Casablanca on Friday at 8am and we drove south to Marrakech. It was so good to see my family, hug my parents, and share with them the country and culture that I've fallen so madly in love with. I was lucky enough to be greeted by my parents, brother, grandmother, uncle, and cousin. It has been really hard for me to explain my experience in Morocco to people from home because, although I try to give you all as much personal insight as possible on this blog, words cannot do this place justice. You have to come experience it for yourself, insh'allah.

Marrakech was bustling and quite touristy, but it was an important first stop for my family. We roamed the ancient medina, ate at food stalls in Fna al-Jameea square, visited the various medina palaces, shopped. From Marrakech, we ventured to Ourzazette, the "gateway to the Sahara" and Essaouria, a beach town on the Atlantic coast where Cat Stevens and Jimi Hendrix lived for years. 

After Marrakech, we ventured north to Rabat, which was truly the highlight of the trip for me because I was excited for my two families to combine as one "ayelet kabeer" (one big family). As I knew would happen, the two families hit it off immediately. My host family welcomed my home family with hugs, kisses, and an unbelievable amount of food. Over the course of Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, the families spent time together for three meals which consisted of pastries, cookies, olives, soup, yogurt, and of course, couscous. My brothers loved playing with Ben, my real brother, and my cousin Brett. My cousins Zineb, Malak, Marwah and Ali also came. They speak english, so they really loved talking to my mom and hearing about her life. My family brought tons of gifts from America and Colgate to give to the entire family, which they loved so much. Also, on Wednesday night, we took the entire family out to Syrian dinner in Rabat. It was such a big treat for them because they almost never eat out, and it was an especially big treat for Bouchra because she didn't have to cook!

After Rabat, we went to Fez, Meknes and Voubilis. Besides for Rabat, Fez was without a doubt my favorite city in Morocco, one that I will have to return to. The medina was so old, authentic, and special. The people were unbelievably friendly. The crafts were like nothing I've ever seen before. In Meknes we visited the most authentic food market in all of Morocco. In Voubilis, we toured the Roman ruins.

I wanted to keep this short, just as a snap shot of our trip, because like my entire experience in Morocco, words cannot do this trip justice. I am so happy that my family fell in love with Morocco and were able to experience and see the things I loved so much. It made me feel incredibly fulfilled and truly solidified Morocco as my second home, because I was able to share it with my family. 

I already knew I would have to return every year, but now I know I'll have to bring my family along as well...

Djaha Family Takes Morocco

Just picked up my family at Mohammed V airport in Casablanca for a 10-day journey throughout al-Maghreb. Mom, Dad, Ben, Nanny, Uncle Steve, and my cousin, Brett, are all here to take on Morocco.

Friday - Monday: Marrakech
Tuesday: Essouaria
Wednesday - Friday: Rabat
Saturday & Sunday: Fez & Meknes

Admit it, you are jealous you aren't here too (Amanda, Sammy, Aunt P)...

Check back for more pictures and posts!

Weekend in Temara

On Saturday, Mama, Nissim, Omar, and our “grandmother” (a close family friend) ventured out the Rabat suburb of Temara to spend the weekend with Kaoutar’s parents, Rita and Abdelkader, in their new apartment. This was a big day because it was the first time I had been out of our house with Mama; she leaves a few times every day, but usually when I’m at school. She was dressed in her nicest orange and brown jellaba and she looked beautiful!

We took an hour long public bus out to the country and arrived around 1pm. Kaoutar and Rita had wanted me to come out for quite some time, since I’ve been in Rabat, so they were incredibly happy to have me here. I also love spending time with Abdelkader, because he and Rita are truly like my Moroccan grandparents. Like my own grandfather Victor, Abdelkader wants to show me the whole neighborhood and take me to meet the neighbors. He grabs my arm and tells me story after story after story. He gives me the eyeball of the lamb in the tagine we are eating. He takes all my bones after I eat and “cleans them, because that’s the good meat”. It’s like I’m home...

It also feels like home because of the amount of food we eat at each and every meal. For lunch, we had 3 Moroccan salads, chicken tangine, french fries and cake. For kaskrout (pre-dinner snack), we had hundreds of Moroccan pastries (which I brought as a gift to Rita), tea and cake. For dinner at 11pm, we had harira (my favorite Moroccan lentil soup), chocolate croissants, chubz (bread), and cake. Basically every meal, we have chubz and cake.

Coming to the country here feels like it does at home, and that makes me happy. The whole family is relaxed, everyone is helping with the cooking and cleaning, all the kids sit on the floor, and we play games outside and watch movies all night. All to similar to summer weekends with my family in the Catskills...