A Magical Night

My time in Morocco so far has taught so many things, but most importantly: never say no to things people invite me to. On Wednesday night, I was starving and lethargic after a 2-hour hammam stay, but when my host sister Kaoutar invited me to go listen to Ghanawi music in the medina, I knew I had to accept. 

Ghanawi music is a blend of Moroccan, Spanish, Berber, and African tones and beats that come together to form an amalgam of sounds, overtones and call and response verses that are captivating and truly addicting. While the group was playing, sitting on Moroccan cushions at the front of the center room drinking mint tea, friends and family would stand in front of them and begin to dance. After some time, these dances became trances, and nearby women would grab onto these individuals to control them during the 20 or 30 minute songs. These trances were incredibly intense and often times people would lose consciousness and pass out during them. It was one of the most unique things I’ve ever seen. 

We arrived at 11pm and stayed until 3:30am, and the session sometimes goes until 7 or 8 in the morning! It turned out that Kaoutar’s best friend’s fiancée is the leader of the best and most traditional Ghanawi group in all of the old medina. I was under the impression that we were going to some sort of music hall or community center, and still thought that even when I entered the beautiful and traditional riyad near Bab Lalou. However, I soon learned that we were actually in the fiancée’s family’s house, and every Wednesday night the entire group comes for a small, intimate practice session open only to family and close friends. I felt so incredibly honored and privileged to be there because I knew nobody else on my program has experienced anything as authentic and rare as this so far. 

Every hour, the men would take a break and form their kif circle around me, and which time I would tell them how much I loved the music and how happy I was to be with them that night. I also showed them American music, such as Dave Matthews Band’s Minarets, which had many Moroccan and tribal vibes similar to the beautiful music they were producing for us. They even let me be part of my own call and response verse. 

When I left, Kaoutar grabbed my arm and told me after tonight, I am undoubtedly a true Moroccan.